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Considerations for Fragrance Development in Cosmetics

Fragrance is an important aspect of cosmetic products, but its development requires careful attention to regulatory standards. In this article, we will explore the key considerations for fragrance development in cosmetics.

IFRA (International Fragrance Association)

IFRA is a globally recognized organization that represents the fragrance industry and provides guidelines for the safe use of fragrances in various applications, including cosmetics. These guidelines are based on scientific research conducted by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). The IFRA Standards provide restrictions on the use of certain fragrance ingredients to ensure consumer safety. Companies can obtain IFRA Certification to demonstrate compliance with these Standards, which are considered a critical aspect of the fragrance industry. Fragrance manufacturers can create IFRA certification by calculating maximum dosages for each category of ingredients used in their fragrance compound according to IFRA Standards, and cosmetic companies can obtain IFRA certification from the fragrance companies. It is important to note that IFRA Standards are not legally binding, but they hold significant weight in the fragrance industry and are considered an essential part of fragrance development. 

Lip care products

Lip care products should be formulated with fragrance ingredients that have FEMA (Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association) numbers. The maximum dosage of fragrance ingredients should not exceed the recommended limit in the IFRA 50th Category 1.

Sun care products

Furocoumarins can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight and pose a risk of skin reactions. In order to comply with EU or other countries regulations, sun care products should be formulated with Furocoumarin levels below 1 ppm.

California Proposition 65

Companies exporting to the United States must comply with California Proposition 65 regulations. If a product contains a substance listed on the Proposition 65 list, it must be labeled accordingly.


Restricted fragrance ingredients

Several fragrance ingredients, including HICC, Atranol, Chloroatranol, and Lilial, are currently banned or restricted in the industry. Companies should always be aware of the regulations in their respective countries to ensure compliance.


Chinese regulations

China has its own fragrance regulations based on IFRA 48th standards. Compliance with these standards is not mandatory, but it can facilitate market access. 

Companies exporting to China must register with the NMPA (National Medical Products Administration) and obtain a registration number.


CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora)

CITES regulates the trade of endangered species and their derivatives, including some fragrance ingredients.

Companies must obtain CITES permits to import or export these ingredients.


Nagoya Protocol

The Nagoya Protocol is a set of rules governing access to genetic resources and the fair and equitable sharing of benefits.

Companies using natural fragrance ingredients must comply with the protocol.


Allergen regulations

Companies must list the 26 allergen ingredients in their products and indicate the concentration. The United States recently updated its regulations to require this information on product labels.

The allergen concentration can be calculated using an online tool at https://scentabile.blogspot.com/2023/02/allergen-percentage-action-select.html.


Regulatory affairs

In addition, there are various restrictions on the levels of fragrance ingredients such as Musk ketone in different countries. Therefore, it is important to request a review of the product launch in the market from fragrance manufacturers to ensure compliance with the regulations in each country.

Companies should carefully review the regulatory requirements in the countries where they intend to sell their products. Regulatory affairs experts can provide guidance and support to ensure compliance with these requirements.


Conclusion: Developing fragrances for cosmetics requires careful consideration of regulatory standards to ensure consumer safety. Companies must be aware of the regulations in their respective countries and seek expert guidance when necessary.


If you come across any inaccurate information or wish to have content removed from this article, please feel free to contact me at my email address: simon_suh@me.com.

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